Since pockets are notoriously difficult and I was doing one anyways, I figured I would photograph and write out my process and make a brief tutorial. If people are interested in more tutorials like this, small bits in depth of the project I'm working on, let me know what you'd like to see!
1. Stitch up any darts in your front lining piece.
2. Assemble front lining and facing.
3. Connect your pocket marks across the seam.
4. Thread trace the pocket mark through.
5. Put a small piece of fusible interfacing over the pocket area.
2. Assemble front lining and facing.
3. Connect your pocket marks across the seam.
4. Thread trace the pocket mark through.
5. Put a small piece of fusible interfacing over the pocket area.
6. On the front, line up your welts to be centered with the edge along the thread traced line. Pin and hand baste if necessary.
7. Stitch 1/4" in from the edge, making sure your lines are parallel and line up very evenly at the corners of the pocket. Use a small stitch length for this.
7. Stitch 1/4" in from the edge, making sure your lines are parallel and line up very evenly at the corners of the pocket. Use a small stitch length for this.
8. Cut open the pocket along the marked center line, stopping 1/2" from the ends of the pocket and from there snipping diagonally to the ends of your stitching lines.
9. Fold the fabric inwards, wrapping around your seam allowances to create the welts.
10. Hand baste the top and bottom of the pocket, then press it gently.
11. Hand baste the pocket closed.
10. Hand baste the top and bottom of the pocket, then press it gently.
11. Hand baste the pocket closed.
12. Machine stitch bottom edge of the welt, in the ditch where you basted.
13. Flipping to the back, stitch the body of the pocket to the bottom of the welt piece and press just that fabric, making sure to not press through the body of the lining and leave marks.
13. Flipping to the back, stitch the body of the pocket to the bottom of the welt piece and press just that fabric, making sure to not press through the body of the lining and leave marks.
14. Fold up the body of the pocket and pin it through the body of the jacket around the top and sides of the welt.
15. From the front, stitch around the sides and top of the welt, catching all layers.
15. From the front, stitch around the sides and top of the welt, catching all layers.
16. Flipping to the back side, finish the body of the pocket by stitching just those two pocket layers around the sides and bottom.
17. YOUR POCKET IS DONE!! I like to leave my pocket openings basted shut while I assemble the jacket, but you can remove any basting along the top and bottom edges of the welt.